Guide
How to read a Tesla VIN
Seventeen characters, no I, O or Q — they were dropped to avoid confusion with 1 and 0. Some of the positions are genuinely informative. Others are just a serial number, and plenty of what buyers want to know is not encoded at all.
| Position | What it carries |
|---|---|
| 1–3 | World manufacturer identifier — who built it and where |
| 4 | Model line |
| 5 | Body type |
| 6 | Restraint system |
| 7–8 | Drive unit and related configuration |
| 9 | Check digit — validates the rest of the number |
| 10 | Model year |
| 11 | Assembly plant |
| 12–17 | Production sequence number |
The check digit is a free sanity test
Position nine is calculated from the other sixteen characters. A VIN that fails the check digit has been mistyped or invented. If a listing's VIN does not validate, that is worth a question before anything else.
What a VIN cannot tell you
This is the part most decoders gloss over. The VIN encodes how the car was configured at a structural level — it does not encode what was optioned, what has been added since, or what the current owner has purchased. In particular it will not tell you:
- Whether free Supercharging is present, or whether it transfers
- Whether Full Self-Driving was bought or is being rented monthly
- Battery state of health
- What the car cost when new
All of that lives in the vehicle's record rather than in the number itself. A pattern-matching decoder guesses at it from the model year. Reading the actual record does not have to guess.
Where to find the VIN
Base of the windshield on the driver's side, visible from outside the car. Also on the door jamb sticker, on the insurance card, and in most online listings. You do not need the seller's permission to read one.
Decode a real VIN
Option codes, Supercharging, FSD, battery health, original MSRP.
Related: option code reference · SC01 vs SC05